Kanoya, Kagoshima Pref. – The city of Kanoya is not one of Kagoshima Prefecture’s most visited destinations. In large part, that’s due to its location at the heart of rugged Osumi, the eastern and less developed of the two peninsulas that flank the entrance to Kagoshima Bay like jagged pincers.

It’s the more developed Satsuma Peninsula on the western side of the bay that draws most of the visitors, and with good reason. Kagoshima City, the self-styled “Naples of the East,” is easygoing, sophisticated and boasts an enviable subtropical climate to go with its romantic vistas across the water to the looming and still-very-much-active stratovolcano, Sakurajima.

Nonetheless, the Osumi side is just 50 minutes away by ferry, and there are many good reasons for taking that leisurely crossing — not least the chance to observe Sakurajima from three sides as you slowly steam past, while sipping on vending machine coffee or even slurping down soba noodles from the on-board cafeteria.

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